Thursday 18 July 2013

On our way to Darwin...in a round about way.

After leaving a town like Alice we took to the East MacDonnell Ranges, stopped in at Jessie and Emily Gorge




and then onto Trephina Gorge where we did a bit of a walk and had lunch. Plenty of space to camp here but busy with travellers coming and going and very dusty and a couple of our new friends, Bob and Cheryl, told us about Ruby Gap Gorge so we decided that would be our destination.  On our way out of Trephina we were stopped by a couple (from the Gold Coast) on a motorbike who had a puncture so Steve helped the guy re-inflate the tyre and repair the puncture and we followed them back to the bitumen and left them return very slowly to Alice Springs and we continued on our way and found ourselves at Arltunga Historical Site.

After catching up on a bit of the local history we found the turn off to Ruby Gap - 40km and 2 hours later on some rugged tracks we found Hale River and the entry to the Nature Park.  It seemed like an endless 40km for so long we turned on the GPS and we were only just around the corner....haha....from the entry.



It was nearly 6pm when we got there so we planted roots at the first suitable spot....travelling 101 - never arrive late.  Our spot was good but the next morning I went for a walk and about 10 feet along the track was a driveway into a great flat huge camp spot with a fire place further away from the dirt track...isn't it always the way.
Any ways...At Ruby Gap Gorge in the 1800s rubies were found but it was later discovered they were not rubies but garnets and on the ground while having brekky Steve picks up a garnet off the ground right at his feet (only small mind you but it is a garnet), so for the morning we sat in the river bed like a couple of big kids digging in the dirt.  The arvo we built up a fireplace...but the wind picked up and we had one fire for a very short time.

We found plenty of garnets, actually the place is covered in them but they are all small.  We found a couple of glassy looking pieces as well so we kept them also as there are zircons found in the area as well.

We went for a walk into Glen Annie Gorge, 6km and took us about 3hours, probably would have taken us 2 1/2 if we didn't stop to look for more garnets.




Into the gorge there were parts of the sandy riverbed that was a hue of red sand with little tiny garnets absolutely everywhere, it was beautiful.



We had a lovely couple of nights here, star filled skies, watching shooting stars and "ufo's" moving around in the skies.  I wish you all could have been there to share it with us.
The flies are bad here:

From here we followed the Binn's Track for about 3days; we followed endless orange dirt roads of
different kind                               
 
                                                                       



and then every so often there would be something that catches your eye, another traveller driving by, group of aboriginals with their broken down car and a campfire on the edge of the road, a couple of graders working to make the roads a bit better for us (the drivers turned around where we had a cuppa so we shared  our mint crisp slice with them) and then sitting on the sand edge will be a beautiful wedge tail eagle watching the world go by....just amazing.  I want to get a good photo of one of these magnificent birds before the end of this trip but its not an easy task. 
One sleepover in a gravel pit showed us a beautiful sunset

but it also turned into a very cold, windy night.

Back on the Binn's Track to the Sandover Hwy, Binn's to the Stuart Hwy via Ali-Curong and had to stop at Wycliffe Well (UFO Centre of Australia)


to have lunch then stopped overnight at Wauchope Pub for the night.  It is starting to warm up, we only had to wear one layer of clothes tonight.
Devils Marbles


next just for a look and onto Tennant Creek for to refuel (cheap $1.759) and lunch, a right onto the Barkly Hwy at 3ways Roadhouse top up fuel at Barkly Homestead (not so cheap $2.029) and then north along the Tablelands Hwy...it is absolutely barren out here, how do the people and cattle survive? 

There are two rest areas on this stretch, our first night stop at Brunette Downs Rest area is the better for a nights sleep as the 2nd one has a beautiful old Southern Cross windmill that didn't pump water any more but still caught the wind and was so squeaky it drove us nuts while we had a cuppa.
Spoke to a couple here telling us of a roo they hit back on the road and a dead ferrel cat...so I got to thinking road kill can mean wedge tailed eagles, so I had my camera at the ready and finally we saw them up ahead...4 eagles having a feast so I told Steve to slow down, I wound down the window and we got so close and as I was going to take my ever precious photo they all took off...in front of the car.  We nearly had one as a hood ornament and I was squealing waving my arms around trying to keep one from flapping into the window and Steve nearly had me on his shoulders.  Needless to say I didn't get any photos. We can laugh about it now.  Anyway........
Yehhhhhhh...finally t shirt, shorts and thongs!!!
Today was a long drive north past Cape Crawford and the Heartbreak Hotel through Limmen National Park to find Lorella Springs Station (with the thermal pools).  Lorella Springs is
1 000 000 acres to camp on, 4WD on, fish on and swim in (except for where there's crocs).  We liked the place, it is very rustic but has a good feel about it and we even enquired about the volunteer help they want and maybe go back next year. We had one day we drove around to the pools, through bush, on rocks and in the bull dust and rested the next day.





We attempted a canoe ride up the creek to see where the thermal springs came out but the vessel wasn't quite sea worthy and the boat we were suppose to use was on the other side of the creek at the nudist campground so we thought we would just go for a walk and we found the bubbles coming to the surface...ooooo, ahhhhhh.
We could have stayed here for a week but we were not prepared for driving around a million acres, fuel and food wise so we left after three nights.
There are so many places to stop along the road we try to suss it out so it's not all the same thing.  Next is Southern Lost City another amazing walk of rock formations



and lunch and now I can start complaining about the heat (not really).  It is 33C at 1pm and very little shade around.  There is a campground further on at Butterfly Springs and it is the only place in Limmen NP to safely swim so we stopped because we never know when our next shower is going to be...hahaha.

Beautiful cool swim and had a chat to a young family, there is never a day goes by without a chat to a new found friendly face. We pulled into a campspot at Town River (croc central) but we still haven't seen any!  A woman caught a 65cm Barra of the bank here while her husband was setting up the camper trailer a few days before we arrived.  How's that, one for the girls!
A big croc was seen on the opposite bank ealier today, any way we went for a walk and found Linda, Kevin, Heather and Frank who we met at Lorella Springs and they had caught up with other friends there, Don and Chris.  They are all Trakky's, not trekky's, they all own Trak Master Caravans, they seem to be a very popular off road vans up here.  After having a tin of soup d'jour for dinner and listening to crazy bird calls and fighting bats overhead and getting sick of being picked up and carried away by the big mozzies we went to bed, but believe it or not we are having the best time.
Our Trakky friends left the following morning and we were not far behind, we past places like Roper Bar, Tomato Island (which isn't an island I soon found out) and finally found bitumen on our way to Mataranka.  We ran into Don and Chris and camped two doors down, did the swim in the thermal pool with every other man and his dog and settled in for a couple of nights.  Had dinner with Don and Chris and they shared their wealth of travel knowledge with us and we had a few things to tell them as well.  Next day Heather and Frank, Linda and Kevin arrived and camped across from us and we all had dinner together.  It was so nice to spend a few days with the same ppl for once.  Steve and I did a 1.2km walk to Stevie's Hole (and swam with the big fish and freshwater crocs), Steve was in for a good 5minutes before I got in, I figured it was safe:/ (we didn't see any).  It was nice to get in some cool water.

Then it was time to move on and head to Katherine, it is only 113km up the road.  Everyone arrives here about 11am, the town is packed when we arrived at the info centre.  We just waited till the crowd died down; used the loo and enjoyed the air con.  Did some shopping and found the coffee club and found a place to stay near the thermal pools.
There is a bit of history here and the Katherine gorge of course but not much really.  We have decided to do a bit of homework and we have arranged to get a permit to go to the Cobourg peninsula up in the Top End of Arnhemland.  We leave Katherine on Saturday 20th July, find a place to stay for a couple of days and drive through Kakadu to Jabiru on the 22nd July to pick up our permit and we have 7 nights in the Gurig National Park. 
So today we went and bought some supplies...

hopefully this will do the trick!

We will do Kakadu when we come back on the 29th July and then we will be off to Darwin.
Hopefully you will hear from us after that with all arms and legs in tacked...hahahaha

Take Care we will...try.

Wednesday 3 July 2013

The town of Alice...

We are leaving Alice on Thursday 4 July so I’m going and try and do a catch up!
We left Hermannsburg and drove to Palm Valley, we had a 30 min drive in/on/through the rough and rugged Finke River (it is dry riverbed of course)
the water does come through here sometimes by the look of the debris on this tree
 

the Finke River

 and got to the Finke Gorge National Park and another 10mins we arrived at the camp ground and it was great – flushing toilets (always a bonus), gas bbq and hotplates, and solar hot showers ($6.60ea per night)

our camp spot seen from the lookout
 
Here we stayed for 2 nights the first night we had a fantastic view of the super moon, absolutely beautiful sunset in the arvo and a clear sky for the full moon.


first the sunset
 
then the super moon


 
Next day we had a walk into palm valley and another  walk to the lookout in the afternoon. 
this is why it is called Palm Valley


lookout

 The 2nd night was quite busy, being school holidays a lot of campers arrived but we had a quite spot to ourself.  We have worked out most people want a spot close to the amenities or the cooking facilities so we go to the furtherest spot and we have plenty of quiet space.  Tomorrow it’s off  to the West MacDonnell Ranges approaching from the west.
Stops along the way:
Gosse Bluff – meteor crater that happened millions of years ago, no picture because the crater is about 25metres wide
Then the gorges along Namajira Drive into Alice Springs:
Redbank Gorge – camped here at Woodlands Campground
 
Glen Helen Gorge
 
Ormiston Gorge – hot showers here and we were going to camp here but too full now we are in school holidays. NT kids have 4 weeks off. Did a walk here up in the hills and back through the gorge climbing over big rocks was about 1 ½ hours.
 
Ochre Pits – where the aborigine men get their colours from.
 
Ellery Creek Big Hole – camped here for the night (2nd state of Origin) started to rain, showers all night.  Walked to the Big water hole about 5 mins away and it was beautiful.  Then went on the ‘Dolomite Walk’ and got a bit confused with the sign posting and ended back at camp so that was a very short walk.


 
The weather hasn’t been that great for the last few days now, mostly overcast so we decided to skip the rest of the sightseeing and head straight into Alice Springs.
Friday 28 June
Drove around Alice did shopping, went to Bunnings (Bunnings , oh how we have missed you…hahaha) and we ran into Bob and Cheryl from Ballarat who we met in Port Douglas last year.  So nice to see you guys again and hopefully the Simpson is kind to you and your friends.
Saturday we visited the School of Air, so amazing and very interesting to see how  the outback kids get their education.

 
Old Telegraph Station – some men there from Sydney that are the last of their kind to be able to send morse code and we got to send Andrew a message via morse code to Adelaide and it will get mailed to him in Brisbane (hopefully it will be in words and not dots and dashes haha) and the views of Alice from Anzac Hill.
 
Sunday the sun was finally out but we had cool gusty winds but another day of sightseeing.  First, Standley Chasm (with cold winds blowing through the chasm),



the walk is 1.2km to the Chasm but it's beautiful all the way in
 
Simpsons Gorge, another short walk and saw a couple of black footed rock wallabies.

 
John Flynn’s historical grave site –The guy who started the Royal Flying Doctor Service.
 
We went to the RFDS display in town and then walked around Alice and looked at the historical buildings.

Adelaide House-first hospital

 
Monday we had a full day walking around the Desert Park – such a good day, finding out about the dessert and the plants and animals.  There is a free flying bird show, a nocturnal house, kangaroos, self guided audio tour as we walked around.









 
Today is July 1, Territory Day in NT and fireworks are for sale everywhere.  The bangs started going off about 5pm and as it got darker the fireworks got louder and bigger.  I have never seen or heard so many fireworks going off all at once all around us, we stuck earphones in our ears and watched a movie on the laptop and the fireworks kept on going.  By 11pm they all sort of stopped and then a couple of hours later they started again and were  going all through the night and there were a few left overs on Tuesday morning. It was a pretty good show but everyone in the caravan park got over it after a while, we even got used to the big bangs close by in the end.
Tuesday was a full driving day to Chambers Pillar, it is over  150km from Alice Springs one way of very rough roads to a quiet and serene part of the country, well almost serene if it wasn’t for…these bloody flies!!! 

We have found a cream here, rosemary and cederwood  with an olive oil base and it keeps them off and smells nice. Had a bit of camel company on the way.



Carved names in the sandstone at Chambers Pillar of the Central Australian explorers in the 1880s who were looking to lay the first telegraph line in the area, can still be seen as plan as day.



the views are spectacular
 
Great camping spot, we should have bought the Tvan, gas BBQ and hot plates, toilets of the pit kind all for $3.30ea per night.  We stopped here and had lunch and then drove back but we worked out we would have enough fuel if we took a little detour, 70km along the Hugh River Stock Route.  We had to stop and open and close a few gates and we had to cross the new Ghan railway line half way along and we came out on the Stuart Hwy 25km north and a right turn 22km on another gravel road into the Rainbow Valley.
...and the sky is so blue
 
Then it was back to Alice Springs, got back by 6pm…huge day.
Wednesday is a pack up, stock up day and onto the East MacDonnell Ranges onThursday and heading north to Darwin in a round about way.
PS.  We are staying in Alice Springs for another day...one of the engel fridges did not like the drive we did out to Chambers Piller so a guy is looking at it on Thursday, so at this stage now leaving Friday.  Mmmmm....public holiday here Friday and the Alice Spring Show is on....youhoo!!!

Blog you when we get to Darwin. 
Cheers